Corduroy


News and Press

News and Press

"Hidden Treasure! You can't see it from the street, but Corduroy is worth searching for...You see hints of Power's apprenticeship with Michel Richard in some dishes...but what comes across most clearly is not any particular influence, but rather that this is the cooking of a chef in love with the inherently good flavors of fresh produce. He may enhance them, but he resists any temptation to try to improve on them. Eating lunch or dinner at Corduroy has provided something of the thrill of going to the Dupont Circle farmers market on Sunday to see what's fresh and interesting."
--Thomas Head, The Washingtonian

"Tom Power is probably the least famous of Washington's culinary heroes, a situation exacerbated by a dining room that's removed from the downtown action, on the second floor of a minor hotel. Take advantage of that. If you want peace and quiet, you're likely to find it here, where the previously stark space has been jazzed up with shimmering metal curtains, mirrors and warmer lighting. Power once worked for the demanding Michel Richard, and the tutelage is evident everywhere on Corduroy's menu, a focused collection of dishes that revel in good ingredients and simple execution. Power's plump steak offers heft, chew and real savor, and comes with delicious pan juices and a stack of thin french fries dusted with parsley flecks -- a steak frites a French chef would be happy to call his own. Crisp-skinned striped bass rests on a sushi rice cake redolent of fresh ginger. It's a beautiful marriage between East and West. There are also flossy salads, lovely single-size pizzas, sometimes a fluffy omelet built around whatever mushrooms are in season and soups that sound plain but never are. The glory is in the details: good bread, nice wines by the (elegant) glass and a chef who seems never to be away from his stove."
-- Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post (full review)

"If Power's dishes share a theme, it is this: He buys prime ingredients and lets them speak for themselves."
-- Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post

"Chef Tom Power's Corduroy is one of the hidden gems of Washington dining, located on the second floor of the Sheraton Four Points Hotel with no direct entrance and only a discreet sign on the street. Although the restaurant's obscure location means diners usually can find a table even on weekend evenings, it also has tended to obscure Power's accomplishments.

A veteran of Michel Richard's kitchens at both the now-closed Philadelphia Citronelle and Richard's home base in Washington, Power cooked at the Old Angler's Inn before opening Corduroy. His style is impressive for its simplicity and the quality of its ingredients. First-course choices on a fall menu included a buffalo-mozzarella "porcupine"; a flavorful cauliflower-Parmesan soup; and wonderful lobster salad enlivened by a spare application of basil-flavored oil. Main-course choices were equally satisfying: a buffalo strip loin from Georgetown Farm, cooked as ordered and served with dauphine potatoes; a lamb sirloin with tiny goat-cheese ravioli; and a beautifully cooked pheasant.

Desserts, as might be expected from Power's training with a master pastry chef, are superb--delicious chocolate-hazelnut bars, perfectly textured ice creams and sorbets, and a rich chocolate tart."
-- Thomas Head, The Washingtonian (full review)

"Chef Tom Power has one of the best and most versatile medium-size lists in town, a good by the glass program, and interesting, small production digestifs."
--Don Rockwell, The Washingtonian

"It's worth checking out because impressive chef-owner Tom Power executes simple yet gourmet dishes based on the seasons."
-- Zagat Survey

"Understated Elegance"
--
Corinna Lothar, The Washington Times